Jasper, AB to Blue River, BC

morning paranoia

I woke up at 6:30 AM.  Garth had made me paranoid that the lodge police were going to bust in and throw me in jail for squatting in a vacant room.  I packed up my bike quickly and went to meet Gaby for breakfast.  We caught Corey sleeping on the job, so we demanded two egg white omelets.

jasper_ab_coreycook

Gaby, like the sweet young lady she was, picked up my breakfast.  Later, I unloaded a lot of the groceries I bought in town a few days ago on her.  I didn’t want to carry the extra weight, and I figured she would probably use the food.

long, long day ahead

In order to get to Kamloops in three days, I would need to do three 100 mile days.  This was big.  I had never done something like this before.

The sky was clear that day and the winds were calm.  I had an early start and looked forward to about 13 hours of daylight.  I was sure I could get 100 miles that day.  I was making pretty good time so I decided to stop for some brownies and yogurt at a natural spring.

“oh, sitting in that car kills my legs”

I was enjoying the view of Moose Lake in the shade until this huge RV pulled up in front of me and blocked my view.  Out popped a lady who looked at me and said in a whiny, complaining tone, “Oh, sitting in that car kills my legs.”  I guess she couldn’t see my loaded bicycle in front of her.  Riding in an air-conditioned vehicle must be so hard.  How could you do it?

“Where are you coming from?” I asked her.

“We left Edmonton around 8 AM,” she proudly said.  Uh.  8 AM?  My ass has been on that bike since then, and you’re complaining about sitting on a cushion in a comfortable truck.  Please leave.

jasper_ab_springwater

She walked into her RV.  Her husband didn’t say a word to me and wasn’t impressed with my trip.  He quickly got into his big metal contraption and locked the door behind him.  So evidently the lady’s ass hurt so much she had to stop, get out of the truck, and go sit in a similarly uncomfortable seat in her RV.  How does that solve anything?  Do you have a massage therapist tucked away in that RV?

bike troubles and awkward goodbyes…again

I was riding with the bike message ‘Will Bike for Beer’.  When I rode with the message ‘I miss my shower’, the ride ended with a shower.  Maybe the same thing will happen with this message.  I got a lot of honks, elbow pumps from motorcyclists, and laughter.  I don’t want your laughter.  Pull over and give me your beer!

I took a picture at Mount Robson.  No one gave me beer there.

jasper_ab_mountrobson

Soon, my good spirits started to go sour.  When shifting gears, I felt a sharp sting on my pinkie.  I looked at the bar end shifter and saw that the gear cable was about to snap.  It was held together by just one metal strand.  No no no no no.  I was on an incredibly remote ride and doubted I would hit any bike shops before the cable would snap.  That would leave me with only three gears. I had sent back all my spare parts with Ashley because I didn’t think I’d need them.  Stupid movie.

I tried not to shift gears that much for about 50 miles.  I kept my head down and cycled hard to Valemount.  I ended up finding a bike shop in town, and they had derailleur cables.  Yay!

I wasn’t excited for long.  The cable didn’t reach my derailleur.  No no no no no.  I sat there and pouted while Ross, the shop employee, tried to lift my spirits.  He went inside and I finally figured out a solution.  I trimmed down the cable housing as much as I could.  Yes.  The cable reached…barely.  I had a centimeter to spare.

jasper_ab_rossbikeshop

I was pumped to correct the problem for only $2.  I didn’t want this to turn into another huge problem.  I gave Ross a celebratory handshake.  I went in for a handshake with the shop owner.  Disaster.

The shop owner went in with a ‘cool guy’ handshake…his thumb pointing towards his body.  Smiling and stupid, I went in with a regular handshake.  He also did the yank back afterward.  Man.  I totally fudged it.  The handshake ended up being this weird bumbling of hands knocking against one another.  It wasn’t even worth a re-do.  I didn’t expect a cool guy handshake because the shop owner was older and had a mustache.  I expected a firm, regular handshake.  I guess Canadians like to mix it up.

bear encounter

I was riding south from Valemount in good spirits.  I was closing in on 100 miles and had a few hours of daylight left.  Suddenly, this huge black dog darted across the road just 75 feet ahead of me.  This dog ran with stiff front legs and its head really high.  Shit.  That was a bear.  I was in shock.  Did that just happen?  I slammed on the brakes.

jasper_ab_bearpatch

Ross had just shared a recent bear experience with me before I left.  He had encountered a grizzly when clearing brush for mountain bike trails.  It was just a few feet above him on a cliff, snarling and showing its teeth.  I complained to him that I wanted to see a bear.  I had been in the Rockies for nearly 2 months and had yet to see a bear.  I encountered two cyclists earlier that day that saw a bear jump into a river.  On my last day of cycling the Rockies, the mountains gave me a bit of a going-away present.

The bear had run into a patch of brush on the side of the road and had not exited.  He knew I was there, and I was not going to take my chances.  I didn’t want my first bear experience to end with my legs severed from my body.  A tractor trailer passed by.  As it passed the area where the bear was sitting, it honked three or four times.  The trucker was either trying to scare it off or warn me about the bear just sitting there.  Shit.

I remembered Doug from Jasper National Park and his stories about drivers running ‘bear interference’.  I knew there was a reason I ran into him.  I tried waving down a few people.  No one would stop.  I was even flailing my arms wildly about.  They just kept driving.  I didn’t even want to hitchhike.  I just wanted them to slow down so I could bike alongside them.

Eventually, a guy with a truck and testicles dangling from his rear license plate stopped and asked if I needed help.  I told him about the situation, so I followed his truck by the patch of brush.

I would live to tell about my first bear experience.

bushwhacking it

I refused to pay $20 to camp when my budget had just been drained due to bike problems.  I was at 120 miles when I decided to just pull over and throw the tent down.  It had been a long day of cycling…about 12 hours.  I was ready to pitch my tent and fall asleep.

blueriver_bc_campspot

I ate three pieces of bread and set up my tent next to a fuel storage container.  I had no clue why it was there or who was going to be using it.  All I knew was that the mosquitoes were feasting on my sweaty body.  I hadn’t had a problem with bugs until this point.  It was hell.  I can’t describe the amount of bugs that were swarming me.  I was rushing to get my tent into position but I had to keep swatting my legs, arms, face, and neck in an effort to squash the insects.  It was a losing battle.  The mosquitoes seemed to have sent out a radio signal once my position was found out.

I threw my pad, sleeping bag, and clothes into the tent.  I would take care of all that inside the netted portion of the tent.  I looked outside my tent.  They were all hovering outside of the screen, sitting there waiting on me to make my exit.  They knew I was trapped.

A few minutes later, a car pulls out up to my tent.  I darted out.

“Shit!  You scared the hell out of me!” this lady screamed.  She saw my bike and calmed down.  “Or I scared the hell out of you.”

I waved and said, “Yeah, I couldn’t make it to town.”  I was shirtless and in my underwear.  I didn’t care.  The lady with her yelled out ‘nice boxers’.  I laughed while swarms of mosquitoes were enjoying the awkward situation.

“Just so you know, I was just trying to find a spot for my son to pee.  I’m not just driving around,” she yelled out the window as she drove off.  I don’t know why she felt the need to explain herself to someone who was camping next to a fuel storage container.  And in his underwear.

Jasper, Alberta

posing as an employee

Jasper Park Lodge employees aren’t really supposed to have guests for extended visits.  Garth wasn’t even supposed to be staying in his room since he wasn’t technically an employee, so that meant I had to find another room to crash.  Through a few connections, we found out there was a room that had been vacant for two months.  It had a private bathroom, mattress, and sink.  Awesome.  The only thing was I couldn’t be caught.  I couldn’t lock the door, and I had to keep a low profile.  All the guys staying in the same cabin knew that the room was supposed to be vacant, so if they saw me enter/exit, it was over.  I was a guy living on the edge.

Garth didn’t want to be seen with me around the room.  He was paranoid.  Once I found out he was paranoid, I became paranoid.  I felt like I was in a highschool cafeteria all the time…all eyes on me.  I fantasized about the Park Lodge police busting in and confiscating all my stuff in the middle of the night.  Maybe they would throw me in the lodge’s squatter jail.

jasper_ab_breakfastlodge

Garth introduced me to the employee cafeteria, which I took full advantage of during the next few days.  Employees had access to a full meal with incredible food for only $2.  For instance, breakfast consisted of unlimited juice and coffee, cereal, fruit, bacon, sausage, pancakes, omelets, hash browns, and pastries.

canada day

I was going to be in Jasper for Canada Day, the nation’s ‘independence day’.  The plan was to go town and ‘fag out’, as Garth called it.  He was quite an interesting character.  He was from South Africa, so he had a great accent.  He always wore his flannel cap from Ireland and walked around with his ‘traveling cup’.  The cup actually came in handy because we used it to drink water right out of the river when walking to town.

jasper_ab_beergroup

I was introduced to Corey and Gaby, two lodge employees and friends of Garth.  We hit the town hard, guzzling expensive beer and being boisterous.  After a few beers, we went to a bar called the ‘Dead Dog’.  The bartender told us to be sure to have our IDs.  Shit.  Corey didn’t have his ID.  The waitress walked up, and I mentioned Corey didn’t have his ID.  “My friend here doesn’t have his ID but…” I started to explain.

“OK.  I can’t serve you,” she snapped as she walked away.  Uh.  We could have ordered food or non-alcoholic beverages you jerk.  Garth was pissed, but he didn’t have the opportunity to snap back at her because she just walked away.  I wanted to go back and take her picture, but I decided to move on.  We went to another bar and ordered poutine, Canada’s world-famous slop food.  It’s pretty much french fries with gravy and cheese curds.  Very good.

jasper_ab_poutine

corey…i like you…a lot

During dinner, I broke the news to Corey.  I liked men.  Corey immediately closed up.  His smiling face turned blank.  As I told him, I rubbed his leg.  I didn’t expect him to believe me, but he did.  I decided to go with it, as did Garth and Gaby.

Garth started arguing with Corey about gay marriage, playing the part of devil’s advocate.  Corey wanted to prove that he was tolerant and open-minded, so he stuck up for me and all the gay men across the world.  I watched him talk and creepily stared at him, moistening my lips with my tongue.  I could tell he was uneasy.  I shifted my body towards his so that our legs would bump into one another.  He would slowly inch away from me, and I would slowly inch towards him.  He was uncomfortable, and I was loving every minute of it.

Garth and I made him hop up on the goat.  Corey wanted to be in the back.

jasper_ab_goat

I celebrated with Canadians.

jasper_ab_canadaday

On the walk back, Garth insisted on hopping on my bike.  In a stupor, he stumbled and kicked my fender.  Snap.  He shattered a big chunk of it.  Ugh.  I felt bad for my bike.  It had gone through so much already.

the send off

I had spent a few days hanging out with Garth and had developed a solid friendship.  I really enjoyed hanging out with him, but all good things must come to an end.  Jason, a friend of his from the restaurant, met up with us to see him off.  I caught Jason rubbing his crotch near a tree.  Really weird guy.

jasper_ab_jasonpose

Gaby met up with us too.  We all went to town to pack Garth’s bike up and put it on the bus.  We embraced each other in front of Jasper the Bear before Garth treated us all to ice cream.

jasper_ab_bear

mean little boy

I dedicated the rest of the afternoon to bike cleanup, maintenance, and fender replacement.  What was meant to be a one hour job turned into a four hour job.  A lot of the screws were hard to get off the bike, and they were close to being stripped.  Rusted screws weren’t the only thing I suffered through…

jasper_ab_tennis

I was working on my bike next to the tennis courts.  A mom decked out in tennis gear walked onto the court with her son.  “OK, are you ready?” she energetically asked.  She served it to him.  Swing and a miss.  This happened over and over until the boy started beating his racket onto the ground.

Excuses started pouring out of his mouth.  “The ball is messed up,” he angrily yelled.  “And this game is so stupid.  Why am I playing this anyways?”  He continued to blame the ball and the game for being bad.  It didn’t cross his mind that he just sucked.  I felt bad for the mother, who was trying to remain positive.

His dad eventually walked onto the court and took his place.  The boy had thrown his racket onto the ground and stormed off.  I found out his mother was just as annoying as he was.  She kept apologizing for every single mis-hit on the ball.  “I’m sorry.  Oops.  Sorry.  I’m sorry.  Oh no.  Sorry.”  This went on for 30 minutes as I was busy stripping the screws on my bike in the blazing sun.

Meanwhile, the boy and his younger brother were playing mini-golf.  The brat boy was picking on his younger brother, making fun of him because of his inability to make par or birdie.  “Oh, I can’t stand to watch this.  Bogey.  Double bogey.  Triple bogey!!! You should just quit!” he yelled.  This kid was picking on his brother because he just got stomped on by his mom at tennis.  This little boy was going to grow up to be a monster.  I wanted to run over there and tell him shut the hell up, but instead I creepily hung my camera over the fence and grabbed a picture.  You can see the older brother yelling at his younger brother on the right.

jasper_ab_kidsgolf

In frustration, the younger brother eventually took his club to his older brother’s ball and knocked it far away.  I didn’t blame him.  I would have done the same thing, except to the kid’s teeth.  The dad saw that I had been watching what was going on, and the dad lost it.  “Put down those clubs!” he yelled at his kids.  “No,” the older boy said.  These kids controlled their parents.

I guess these parents could afford $400+ per night rooms but couldn’t afford to punish their children properly.

browned in alberta

I was leaving Alberta the next day and had yet to brown anyone.  Corey and Gaby were my targets that night.  Corey helped me get an egg from the kitchen along with some oil.

Yo, Corey and Gaby!  You got BROWNED!

jasper_ab_browned

Afterward, we watched Selena.  Brownies and Selena.  That was a first.

Jasper National Park

loaded once more

I wasn’t looking forward to the ride through Jasper National Park.  Alex had decided that he’d ride east towards Red Deer, Alberta.  That meant he’d exit Banff before entering Jasper park.  Our camp was 106 miles from the town of Jasper, so I decided to make that my goal for the day”s ride.  I didn’t want to drop $30 to camp in the park, and I was tired of my bland food.  100+ mile days aren’t a usual target of mine, but when a shower/food awaits me at my endpoint, it makes it a hell of a lot easier.

banff_ab_waterfowlmoring

I said my goodbyes to Jim, Alex, and Anouk…now good friends of mine.  We had overcome hardship together:  numerous mountain passes, Alex’s bad knee, my bad bike, and my bad smell.  I am happy to say that my hugs with them were unhindered by my ‘awkward’ karma.

doug the bear man

After leaving Waterfowl Lake, I encountered a cyclist named Doug.  He was riding from Alaska and shared a few of his experiences with me.  It’s pretty common for touring cyclists to pull over and give some info on what lies ahead, anything from road conditions to animals.

banff_ab_doug

Doug was telling me about his bear encounters in Alaska and how he had to flag down cars to run ‘interference’ while he cycled by them.  Pretty awesome.  I bookmarked that bit of info.  The universe might be bringing me Doug’s experience for a reason.  It was only a few days later that I’d be using his advice…

terrible comedian

After cycling past the Howse River, I made my gradual climb to Sunwapta Pass.

banff_ab_howse

I wanted to conquer Sunwapta before noon, but that seemed unlikely because I was stopping to speak to cyclists.  I met a huge group of Vancouver cyclists going from Jasper to Banff unloaded.  They were being supported by their RV.

They offered me hot chocolate and cookies after I told them my story.  “Wow, now I feel like a big weeny,” one of them said.  It made me feel good.  They were all crowded around.  All eyes were on me.  Damn.  There was a lot of pressure to be interesting.

banff_ab_rvgroup

“What is that sign on the back of your bike?” one of them asked.

A few thoughts ran through my mind.  Should I tell them a few examples of my messages?  Should I just laugh and say it’s for stupid sayings?  Will they think I’m an idiot?

“I just write messages on the back…just to liven up the ride,” I said with a stupid grin on my face.  “For instance, the other day when crossing into Canada I was riding with the message ‘I heart Canadian Bacon’.”

No laughter.  Nothing.  Blank stares by all of them.  I started panicking.  What do I say now?  Did I offend them?  Is this some weird offensive thing to say?  Dave Cutts, my dear Canadian friend, joked about it before with ne.  Why didn’t they think it was funny?  Aren’t all Canadians the same?????  My face was turning the color of Ronald McDonald’s hair.  Quick…say something else.

“Yesterday, I rode with ‘Don’t feed bears, feed us’ written on the back,” I said quickly.

There was laughter.  I saved my ego from being destroyed.  Why did this great moment have to be ruined by a bad joke?  Everything was going so well up until that point.

sunwapta pass

40 miles into the day, I started to hit the huge climb up to Sunwapta Pass.  I didn’t realize this was going to be a 5 mile constant climb.  You can see it in the middle of the picture here.  Yeah.  It’s the big one.

banff_ab_sunwaptafar

And this was the biggest switchback I had encountered on the entire tour.  This was not a good sign.

banff_ab_sunwaptaswitchback

I got close to the top and decided to grab a few good pictures with the bike board message for the day.  Jared Forkner, my dear friend with a beautiful face, wanted to motivate my ride with ‘Go Rygai’ (Ry-guy) with his signature ‘Rydia’…his video game persona.  I have to explain it here because Japanese people kept looking at me thinking it was some sort of ‘Engrish’.

banff_ab_supwaptahandstand

Right after taking a few pictures, it started snowing pretty hard.  No no no no no.  This couldn’t be happening.  I had 60 more miles left, and it was already 1 PM.  All I had eaten was a bagel.  My spirits were being weakened.

jasper_ab_sign

After getting out of the snow system, I crossed into Jasper National Park and headed towards the Columbia Icefields.  No good.  I encountered hundred of tourists at the lodge area.  I wanted a cup of coffee, but that went sour when I saw that the place looked like a mall.  It was very frustrating for me at the time.  I went back outside in the snow to eat a bagel.

jasper_ab_icefieldslodge

lying, apathetic, sleeping driver

The moment I left the Columbia Icefields lodge, the snow started to come down hard.  I was not happy.  Snow kept getting into my eyes, and the hand-me-down gloves I got from Yellowstone were soaked.  I was cold and wet.  I didn’t know how long this snow system went on for.  It could have lasted the next 35-40 miles for all I knew.  There was no way I was getting to Jasper in these conditions.  My wheel had also gotten worse.  I looked down at it while riding.  The wobble was bad and the spokes looked like they were ready to go at any given second.  I didn’t want to get stuck in this.

jasper_ab_snow

I stopped and decided to thumb it.  No one stopped.  No one.  There were plenty of trucks that could have given me a lift, but they drove right on by.  This further dampened my spirits.  I cycled a few more miles and saw a truck pulled over just ahead.  I recognized this truck.  He had blown right by me while I had my thumb out.  I set my bike down and walked up to the driver’s side window.

jasper_ab_snowroad

His head was back on the head of the seat and his eyes were closed.  He was faking being asleep to avoid contact with me.  I knocked on his window and waved to try to get his attention.  He didn’t movie.  This bastard knew I needed help and was going out of his way to ignore me.  I wasn’t panhandling.  If I was, he should have given me $20 just because I worked my ass off to get into such a pathetic situation.

I walked to the passenger’s side window and tried again.  He didn’t move.  I wanted to bust through the window and put my freezing, icy fingers around his neck.  How could someone be this apathetic to someone in need of help?

I walked away pissed off.  I sat down in front of my bike.  I looked back at the truck and saw the driver moving around, once again fiddling with his stuff.  I took a picture of him just because I was so angry.

jasper_ab_fakesleeper

He sped off once I did this.  He knew I knew what he was doing.  I hope he felt foolish.  I continued to sit there in the snow.  I erased Jared’s message and wrote ‘Need Ride, Wheel Busted’.  I pulled myself off the wet asphalt and look down the road.  Nothing.  Not a sound.  I was desperate.

Two park rangers eventually drove by and gave me a lift to the ranger station.  There, I dried off and thought about what to do.  There was a hostel a few miles away, but I had little food and no cash.  I had to get out of the park.  I decided to get back on the bike and keep trying to thumb it while cycling.  Not good hitchhiking etiquette, but I couldn’t waste time standing on the road.

jasper_ab_rangerstation

a dad and his two bored sons

My eyes were fixed on my sideview mirror.  If a truck came up behind me, I’d turn my torso and stick my thumb out, making eye contact with the driver.  Eventually, a truck with a camper in tow pulled over.  Out popped Andy, a government worker who was on a road trip with his two sons to Alaska.

Michael and Jordan were in the back.  They were bored.  I could tell Jordan had no interest in the trip.  Andy kept telling me that he hated those video games and movies his kids were always watching, and he wanted to give them a real experience while spending time with them.  I don’t blame him, and I admired his passion.  Unfortunately, his kids didn’t.  Andy’s wife had just passed away, and he felt it would do the family good to do a trip like this.  I kept telling his sons they’d appreciate the trip later in life, but they weren’t having it.

jasper_ab_family

Before dropping me off in Jasper, Andy bought me a Snickers bar.  Andy was a good guy.

budget concerns

I took my bike over to the shop in town.  After speaking to them a while, I found out the repair was going to be about $140.  Ugh.  I had mentally prepared myself for this, but it was still hard to swallow.  I’d have to leave my bike with them, which meant I had to take a taxi to the Jasper Park Lodge.  This meant another $20.  I walked over to the grocery store to buy some food before heading to the lodge.  I dropped $22 and only came away with pasta, chips, and two onions.  Spending this much money in one place made me very anxious.

I eventually got to the lodge that evening.  I would be crashing in the staff cabin with Garth, a fellow touring cyclist.  I had arranged to bike tour with him from Jasper to Vancouver.  He had quit working for the Jasper Park Lodge and was planning on moving to Vancouver to live with his girlfriend.  I was very excited to be sharing the road with another cyclist.

Later that evening, he told me that he wanted to take the bus to Vancouver.  He wanted to see his sweetheart badly and couldn’t stomach a two week ride.  He estimated two weeks because he likes to take his time while cycling.  I had planned for the ride to be 8 days, but I could deal with a slower pace for the sake of company.  Well, I didn’t have to worry about that now.  He was pretty set on taking the Greyhound.  I was pretty bummed, but I tried to mask it.  I didn’t want to guilt him into riding with me, and I could relate to his desire to see his girl.  After all, I went through it daily.

Banff National Park

where am i?????????????

That night I had woken up and freaked out inside my tent.  It was the first time that had happened in my tent.  I’ll often wake up in the middle of the night and freak out when I sleep in someone’s house in a bed…but never in a tent.  That night I sat straight up and started banging on the sides of the tent.  “Where the hell am I, and why am I inside a coffin?” I thought.  I went for the zippers.  They wouldn’t budge.  I started freaking out even more.  Where was I?  Why couldn’t I get out?  Did some ugly man kidnap me?  Was I stuck in some incubator?  It finally came to me.  Stupid Ryan.  I was camping.

i’m a weeny. sorry.

I found out I was riding with morning people.  Except for Alex.  He was slow to get out of the tent like me, but Jim and Anouk were up and at it around 7 AM.  I didn’t want to get up.  It was too cold.  I was a big weeny.  I could tell Anouk was a little annoyed.  Shit.  The birds come out in the morning, I guess.  She missed prime time bird hour because of me being a weeny.

I packed up quickly and ate a crappy breakfast.  Plain bagels with butter.

banff_ab_johnstonmorning

We were en route to Lake Louise, the thing to see in Banff National Park.  On the way, we saw a couple from Australia.  They were loaded.  We weren’t.  I felt like a weeny again.  We passed other touring cyclists.  A lot of them passed us by.  They had no respect for cyclists without bags.  I could understand.  They were suffering.  I was not.

banff_ab_aussies

lake louise…another old faithful

Jim, Alex, and I finally pulled up to Lake Louise Village around noon.  Jim had been there numerous times, so he told Alex and I to go ahead.  I felt obligated to see the lake because it was like Banff National Park’s centerfold.

I rode up the hill to Lake Louise.  It felt like 11-12% at certain points.  This better be worth it.  Alex and I were standing on the pedals for what felt like 20 minutes.

I was riding with the message “Don’t feed the bears, Feed us”.  I was hoping someone would think it was funny and give me food.  My groceries were pathetic.  Bagels, macaroni, butter, two apples, and chocolate spread.  I wasn’t looking forward to resupplying my bagel stash at the village.  Food in Canada is at least 30% higher than in the US.  Well.  We were in Banff National Park.  Food prices were going to be double that at the village.

banff_ab_lakelouisesign

Lake Louise was tourist-packed.  I felt like leaving the minute I saw what seemed like thousands of people.  Ugh.  This was Old Faithful all over again.  Too bad Lake Louise wasn’t accessible only to hikers and bikers like Lone Star Geyser.  For some reason, I felt robbed of all my hard work.

banff_ab_lakelouisesandwich

The lake was great, but I was ready to leave.  Alex had been talking to a large woman who refused to eat her food before talking.  She had a huge sandwich in her hand and an even bigger sandwich in her mouth…while talking.  Gross.  It was like listening to a cow munch on grass while miraculously speaking English.

We left Lake Louise.  Things started to go downhill for me.  Literally.

falling apart

A few days ago, Merick had mentioned that my rear wheel had a wobble in it.  I didn’t think much of it.  It probably just had to be trued.  I’ll take care of it at a bike shop for $15.  That day, Alex had mentioned that the wobble was pretty bad.  I took it to the bike shop in Lake Louise to get it fixed.

Having it true wasn’t the solution.  My wheel had 9 different cracks in it.  The spokes were getting ready to rip out of the rim.  My guess was that it was probably due to the weight.  Ugh.  I wonder what this was going to cost.  I found out the most cost-effective solution would be $180, and that was for parts.  Who knows what they would have charged for labor.  After much thought, I decided to ride it out to Jasper.  The bike shop there should have a bigger selection of rims and maybe they’d help me out with the pricing.

A few miles down the road, my chain kept slipping out of first gear.  Jim and Alex noticed that my derailleur was bent.  Shit.  I had no clue how to fix it.  I could force it back, but I’d probably break something.  There went my granny gear for the mountain passes.

I was stressed out.  I kept thinking about the cost of repair.  Would my budget last me to San Francisco?  Would I have to cut it short?  I cycled ahead of Jim and Alex for about 15 miles to take out some of the stress on the road.  I stopped for a bagel and a picture.

banff_ab_handstand

My bike fell on me after putting my camera away.

banff_ab_legblood

The cog had dug down into my shin.  What the hell was going on with my karma?  I was falling apart.  My bike was falling apart.

Whatever.  I’m going to think positive.  I cycled on to the top of Bow Pass, and there I enjoyed a great view of Crowfoot Mountain and Crowfoot Glacier.

banff_ab_crowfootmountain

Notice the shape of what looks like a crow’s foot.  The lower toe has melted throughout the years, but at least the top two toes were still there.

banff_ab_crowfootglacier

japanese tourists

I found that watching Japanese tourists was almost as interesting as looking at the landscape.  Many of them don’t like getting out of their cars to take pictures.  They just take them through their car windows.  And they’ll take pictures of anything.  Many of them sneaked pictures of me while I wasn’t looking.  I wasn’t even that interesting.  Maybe it’s because I have pretty eyes.

banff_ab_japanesetourist

This guy had Crowfoot Glacier in front of him, but here he was taking pictures of a very common bird…a raven.

Jim and Alex caught up to me, and we rode together to our campground for the nite:  Waterfowl Lake.  Along the way, we enjoyed some incredible views of glacial lakes and glaciers.  I wish the Japanese man was following me, taking pictures of the ugly cyclist outside of his car window.

banff_ab_bowlake

i dub thee, sir ryan of harwell

Anouk, Jim, and Alex had been giving me a hard time for using a spork for everything.  If I wanted to butter my bagel, I’d use my spork.  If I wanted to cut up some bread, I’d use my spork.  If I wanted to find a pretty girl to marry, I’d use my spork.

Alex wanted to give me a ‘send-off’ gift.  I didn’t know what to expect when he said this.  And then he pulled out a glorious plastic knife.  I was honored.

banff_ab_knifeknight

He dubbed me Sir Ryan of Harwell.

Kootenay National Park

another awkward hug

After eating breakfast with Dave and Donna, Dave drove me up to Radium Hot Springs, where I’d be meeting Jim and Alex.  Donna sent me off with brownies and Gatorade mix.  Oh, and she sprinted like a cheetah 300 yards through tall grass and woods to give me the handlebar bag I had forgotten.  I felt like an asshole and an idiot.  At the same time, I was incredibly impressed with Donna’s speed and agility to catch Dave’s car.  I figured she had some freak ability to turn into a werewolf, jumping over huge obstacles and sniffing my disgusting cyclist scent down.

Dave dropped me off near a coffee shop in Radium.  Jim and Alex pulled up, and after introductions and goodbyes, I gave Dave a hug goodbye.  I was anxious about this one.  I had messed up the past few hugs.  I didn’t want this one to go awkward.

It did.  I knew it would.  Why?  There were two other male cyclists standing right next to me while I’d be giving another guy a hug goodbye.  It was the perfect recipe for disaster.

I think Dave was hesitant to give me a hug goodbye…possibly because two other males were in our midst.  Or maybe I was just imaging it.  Regardless, Dave is much taller than I am, so my face would probably be buried in his chest if the hug went through.  Stupid…I should have thought about that.  Hugging similar height people always works out OK, but it doesn’t go so well when you hug someone taller.

I came out of the hug wondering what Alex and Jim were thinking.  “Would they notice my head being buried in the pectoral region of another man’s?” I thought.  I found out seconds later that the height issue wasn’t the problem.

I had heard a crack sound when going in for the hug.  Shit.  Dave was wearing sunglasses that were dangling on a strap across his chest.  You idiot, Ryan.  You crushed his lenses.  I was worrying about it, but I didn’t want to bring it up.  That would have made it worse.  Dave was fiddling with his sunglasses trying to pop the lenses back into place.  I just stood there.  Did Jim and Alex notice?  Would they just cycle away in disgust?

Dave said goodbye and drove off to a meeting.  Alex introduced me to his wife Anouk, who would be carrying our panniers throughout the park to each campsite.  She was there to visit with Alex and check out birds.  I was excited to ride without my 70 pound load, but I was still internally obsessing over the sunglasses.

kootenay national park

We got coffee outside the park entrance in preparation for Sinclair Pass.  I was pumped about riding unloaded.

kootenay_bc_coffee

Off we went into the park.  I was talkative and happy to be riding with Jim and Alex.  I was chatting their heads off.  Would they be annoyed after just 10 minutes with me?  I tried to regulate the amount of talking I did, but I couldn’t help myself.  Jim and Alex were great guys and very easy to talk to.  I was happy with the company and happy with the scenery.

kootenay_bc_enteringrocks

On the way up, we rode by a few bighorn sheep.

kootenay_bc_bighorn

I really enjoyed going up Sinclair Pass.  Although it was a 10% grade in many sections, I was riding unloaded and conquering it with ease.  I’m sure the route would punish me later that day.

We conquered the pass together.  Jim and Alex were happy.  I was happy.  We smiled a lot at a lake.

kootenay_bc_sinclairpass

Lots of good views of the Rockies.

kootenay_bc_kootenays

And glacial lakes.

kootenay_bc_jimlake

We rode along Vermilion River all the way up to Vermilion Pass.  Along the way, Alex gave me all the dirt on Canada, including some pretty scandalous stories about Prime Minister Mulroney.  He was involved in a lot of sleezy stuff.  Maybe Mulroney could sponsor my tour.

kootenay_bc_vermilionriver

Just after Vermilion Pass, we crossed into Banff National Park.

banff_ab_parksign

And Alberta.

banff_ab_sign

Banff National Park gave us a glorious view of Castle Mountain.

banff_ab_castlemountain

We camped at Johnston Canyon that night.  Jim fired up his stove and almost blew up the entire campsite.

banff_ab_jimstove

Other than that, we were all in good spirits from our ride that day.  Alex was in a great mood, saying that “this day was one of the best days of his life.”  I was happy to be a part of it.  Alex worked at a software development company, so he was blown away by the landscape.  I guess it was a huge change from staring at Windows all day.  “I’ve got beer, great company, and my lady,” he said smiling.  I looked at Jim.  Maybe Jim could be ‘my lady’ that night.

banff_ab_campjohnston